I need your clothes….

…your boots, and your motorcycle

That’s right, I’ve been working on some terminators for my grand company. ¬†And they’re not doing too bad – nearly halfway through my terminator annihilation force in a blur of action that has not matched my previous apathetic mood.

This apathy was brought on by one particular model…

…and my inability to recess shade my vindicator ūüė≠. Especially when Duncan makes it look so easy ūüėē.

However – I clearly got my mojo back XD

Quick question anyone know how to wash a smooth surface well? Would really help me finish this Deathwing shoulder pad

And how do you get the shade good on a smooth surface
Is the stripe meant to be green?

(also – is that about the correct colour scheme?)

Well, the train is about to pull in so I will lose my wifi

Happy war games!

</Oli>

 

Obliterating the obliterator?

Ah painting an Obliterator.

This should be fine. Have no fear it’ll be a breeze.

So step one as always will be, apply your basecoat.

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So now it is green we are working in the right direction.

Next is applying the thick drybrush of Elysian Green.

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No we are gaining some depth of field to him.

So onto the next layer which isn’t a heavy drybrusy,¬†it’s a light drybrush so that you get only the highest edges.

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This gives that extra depth needed. But what about the flesh? I hear you cry well.. my friend we go over it in the Rakarth Flesh like we would any detail. I would also cover areas in the skullcrusher brass.

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For this model I actually decided not to wash it. I just thought that it seemed fine and didn’t need it. That being said I have another one which I may wash cus it might not look as good.

Then of course Basing with the amazing mud paint!!

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But if washing is your thing pick an appropriate colour. Dark green is always a good one for Nurgle.

You shall never stop the rot!

HG OUT!

Nurgle Tank tutorial: Get the brushes!

So long, too long… oh so too long.

 

But let us begin!

For those who are new to this page, it may not be updated often but when it is the content is quality.

So along with it all:

If you haven’t read my other painting guides then please go to them to find out what I use for the base coat.

(Sorry I sprayed the tank ages ago and I am not sure what it is now.)

Other than the base coat… here we go.

So the first layer I did a heavy and rough layer of Elysian Green:

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To follow this up I did a drybrush layer of Ogryn Camo. This gives a bit more life to the vehicle as well as some light and dark contrast:
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As always dry brushing pulls the details out and adds some texture to the creation.

 

the next layers on it were very simple it requires adding all the detail in with… of course my two favourite ways of adding detail. The paint colours I am using for this is the same as I always use Skull crusher Brass and Rakarth Flesh.

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I then applied my favourite paint which GW have made. If you haven’t tried there basing paints… Well where have you been all this time.¬†I personally go for Stirland Mud (I believe that is the name).

So I applied to the tracks and around the edges to give another layer of realism.

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The last thing I will mention is do not wash the tank but if you feel compelled to.

Only put it in crevices as it will make your tank sparkle otherwise.

That is all

Sorry for the long wait and what I feel is a boring post.

Life has been getting in the way.

Remember you can never stop the rot

HG out!!

Update on the walking rot

Well my army creation has ground to a near standstill only because of the dreaded four letter word… Work.
I have been working for asda as a delivery driver which takes up time as well as being tasked with doing all the sound for a feature length film.

The movie

I can’t lie I’m very grateful for being allowed to work on it, but it is a lot of work yet it is ready fun.

Paint needed 750pts only on the shelf

The army is out and just in need of a lick of paint!

Harry out

An Iron Update

So, as always, life gets in the way during the run up to November/December. ¬†But nonetheless, stuff has been happening for the 66th Grand Company and the point of this is to share what’s been happening.

Thing the first:

I had my arse handed to me. ¬†Which is not unusual. ¬†Deep striking imperial guard totally outgunned me. ¬†Now, I can’t remember my list exactly; except I was trying out using chosen CSM squads as troops – as the black legion codex will let you do. ¬†The reason I bring this up is it sort of compounds my more general¬†thoughts about the CSM codex. ¬†Namely, compared to imperial space marines, everything *seems* sort of expensive. ¬†Does anyone else find this? Do I just have a bad list? Am I the only one who feels short of ‘tools’.

Thing the second:

I finally finished painting my defiler!

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Isn’t he pretty… I mean I hated painting him, but I’m pleased with the final result. ¬†He’s all packed away now; or at least until I have need to scrap an imperial knight (did happen – one round of combat XD opponent was not pleased).

Thing the third:

Terminators! I now have basecoated enough terminators to deploy a terminator annihilation force (WIP below)

Hopefully this helps with thing the first.

Thing the fourth:

I have some models that I’ve been jones-ing for: A Warsmith and a Warpsmith. ¬†They’re both kitbashed and held together with copious amounts of bluetac.

There’s also a second Warpsmith¬†kitbash that’s happening but the bluetac wasn’t playing ball so I couldn’t photograph it. ¬†Now I just need to name the lot of them.

See ya next time

</oli>

A Warsmith…

… my kingdom for a proper Warsmith.

Yes, my grand company needs a Warsmith and a proper Warsmith at that.

However the GW miniature is a bit…

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…meh. ¬†The powerfist looks more like an Ork power klaw and I’m not sure about the combi-melta (I’m torn between that and a combi-flamer). ¬†And a terminator lord would be good to play with.

Which brings me to the rather lovely forgeworld model:

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Unfortunately this model requires a bit of converting – something I’m not quite comfortable with (bar some kit bashing). ¬†The main problems are the right hand weapon and the Iron Hands iconography.

The weapon problem might not be too difficult to solve.  Turns out that the hands are separate to the arms, so simply cutting a termie combi-melta (or combi-flamer; really not sure what to do) off their arm and then gluing it on their arm.

That leaves the iconography – I suppose filing it down or carefully clipping them down may be the best option. ¬†Then you simply hazard stripe over it, or attempt a silver skull (which are absent from my army at the moment; I’ll add them later when I’m feeling brave).

I think I’ll play him as a terminator lord with power axe, combi-weapon, sigil of corruption/Mark of Tzeentch and a combat familiar. ¬†I believe it comes to 145 pts (so actually pretty cheap).

So why the uncertainty over the combi-weapon and the sigil of corruption? Well, do I want my Warsmith to be taking a pot shot at an enemy tank or contributing D3 automatic overwatch hits? This is particularly problematic as I have a few combi-meltas and an autocannon in the terminator squad so it’s an extra melta shot seems bit superlative. So combi-flamer then? Well, I also have a heavy flamer terminator so maybe the combi-melta (giving two or three goes at a tank). ¬†So perhaps a combi-melta if I take a heavy flamer and a combi-flamer if I take a reaper? Perhaps… but that complicates the building.

And why the sigil problems? Well… Tzeentch is cheaper but not fluffy and sigil is more expensive, but has fluff value. ¬†AND they both end up as a 4+ invulnerable save. ¬†It’ll probably end up as Tzeentch and I’ll write his bio as explaining it away as “not really Tzeentch, just mysterious…” ¬†Anyway, the Sentinels of Terra book has a Warsmith called Shontu who could be played as a Warpsmith with the Mark of Tzeentch – so it’s not too bad, right?

Also we need a name that’s not “The Warsmith”. ¬†“The Warsmith” is the former Warsmith of the 126th Grand Company, so we can’t be using that…

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